Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi – A Wonderful MUST-SEE

In this article, I have tried to capture the historical essence of Humayun’s Tomb, one of the best tombs in Delhi. The first-ever garden tomb on the Indian Subcontinent is a must-visit for Dilli wallahs, tourists, and travelers visiting Delhi.

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Humayun’s Tomb or Humayun Ka Maqbara

Of many delightful historical monuments that adorn the lanes of Delhi, Humayun’s Tomb, or Humayun ka Maqbara (Maqbara-i Humayun) intrigues me the most.

The grand imperial sandstone mausoleum is a photographer’s haven for a reason.

It’s as pretty as a picture. The tomb attracts over two million visitors each year and remains exceptionally well-maintained.

As I mentioned in my Ultimate Delhi Travel Guide, I took my city ‘Dilli’ for granted for a long time before I realized that it’s a privilege to have lived here.

The realization brought me closer to the city I call home. I explored and understood the being of the national capital.

One beautiful morning in January, I drove to Humayun’s Tomb to catch a glimpse of the monument waking with the light of the rising sun.

What I saw filled me with awe.

The geometric structure meticulously crafted in the 16th century, Humayun’s Tomb was one of the first grand mausoleums in India to feature an iconic Mughal-style char bagh (a Persian quadrilateral garden divided by walkways and water channels) and thus became the finest example of Mughal architecture in India.

Are you a history lover like us? You sure would love to read about the Safdarjung Tomb and the Tughlaqabad Fort in Delhi.

Before we walk and talk about Humayun’s Tomb, there are several iconic structures worth seeing on the way to the Garden Tomb in Delhi.

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Attractions Near Humayun’s Tomb

Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya Dargah

Located in Nizamuddin West, Hazrat Nizamuddin is the dargah (a tomb or shrine) of the famous Sufi saint, Nizamuddin Auliya.

A narrow street brimming with shops and stalls selling flowers and chadars takes you to the Dargah complex.

The dargah complex also houses the tombs of Jehan Ara Begum (the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan’s daughter), Amir Khusro (poet), and Inayat Khan.

Some of the other vital structures in the Nizamuddin Heritage Area are the tomb of Atgah Khan, Chini ka Burj, Kalan Masjid, the tomb of Khan-i-Jahan Tilangani, Barapula, Chaunsath Khamba, the tomb of Khan-i-Khanan, and Mazar-e-Ghalib (tomb of Mirza Ghalib).

To experience the best of Dargah, visit on Thursdays, when the melodious, spiritual sounds of qawwali reverberate off the stone walls.

Delhi Urs (the death anniversary of Hazrat Sheikh Nizamuddin Aulia Chishti) is also a great time to visit, when one can see the dargah in all its glory.

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Sabz Burj

A historical structure right in the middle of the traffic square at the intersection of Mathura Road and Lodhi Road caught my attention.

Known as Sabz Burj, it’s located just opposite the entrance to the Humayun Tomb Complex.

Ironically, it’s the most candidly located yet the least known heritage monument in Delhi.

Sabz Burj literally translates to Green Dome, though the dome isn’t green at all. Its dome originally had green tiles, which were mistakenly changed to blue during restoration.

The structure is now called Neeli Chattri (Blue Umbrella).

The 16th-century octagonal tomb with a beautiful blue dome was used as a police station during British rule.

The tomb is said to be the first example of Mughal architecture in the Timurid style.

Inside, there’s no grave, and the purpose of the construction is hazy. Also, no one commissioned it.

It’s not open to the public, but it can be admired from the outside.

Sunder Nursery

Sunder Nursery, previously known as Azim Bagh near the parking lot of Humayun’s Tomb (just 50 meters away), is a beautiful green space in the heart of the city.

Delhi’s first arboretum, Sunder Nursery, is home to a wide variety of native trees, flowers, birds, and butterflies.

It not only sells potted plants but also houses many (15 to be precise) Mughal-era historical structures, of which six have been given UNESCO World Heritage status: Sunder Burj, Sunderwala Mahal, Mirza Muzzafar Hussain’s tomb, Lakkarwala Burj, Chhota Batashewala, and the Unknown Mughal’s tomb.

Sunder Nursery is open all days of the week from Sunrise to Sunset.

The entry ticket costs INR 35 for Indian and SAARC citizens and INR 100 for foreign citizens. Children (5-12 years) and senior citizens (60 years and above) have to pay only INR 15 for entry.

Entry is free for children under 5 years old and people with disabilities. Wheelchairs are available for disabled visitors.

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Humayun’s Tomb – The Splendor of Delhi

A Little Bit of History

Nasiruddin Muhammad Humayun (1508 – 1556), better known by his reign name Humayun, was the son of Mughal Emperor Babur and the second emperor of the Mughal Empire.

Humayun died as he slipped down the staircase while trying to kneel after hearing the call to prayer (Azaan).

Akbar succeeded his father under the guardianship of Bairam Khan, as he was too young (13 years old) to run the kingdom.

Humayun’s body was initially buried in the Purana Qila, then shifted to Sirhind, Punjab, when Hemu Vikramaditya captured Purana Qila, and finally ceremonially buried in his garden tomb.

Commissioned by Bega Begam, aka Haji Begum, aka Hamida Banu Begum (Humayun’s first and favorite Persian-born wife) and designed by Mirak Mirza Ghiyas (Persian architect) in the mid-16th century, Humayun’s Tomb is a blend of Mughal and Persian architecture.

Mirak Mirza Ghiyas’s son, Sayyid Muhammad, completed the tomb, as his father had died before it was constructed.

The tomb structure was ignored entirely as Agra became the Mughal capital, and the Mughal decline further deteriorated the monument. The situation worsened completely as the Britishers took over and allowed farmers to use the premises for farming.

It served as a refuge for the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, in 1857 before the British arrested and exiled him.

At the time of the Partition of India, the tomb complex was opened for Muslim refugees to set up camps, which caused substantial damage to the structure and its vast gardens.

The monument and its gardens were finally restored and preserved as a heritage monument after the Archeological Survey of India (ASI) took over.

The restoration of Humayun’s Tomb has been ongoing since it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Humayun Tomb Complex

The Humayun Tomb Complex, apart from Humayun’s Tomb, houses 150+ other Mughal tombs, mosques, and even a Sarai (lodge), and is thus called a “Dormitory of the Mughals.”

All the structures and tombs are gathered around Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya Dargah, a kilometer away from the Humayun Tomb complex.

It was considered sacred to be buried near the tomb of a saint, and that’s why Haji Begum chose to commission Humayun’s Tomb in the dargah’s vicinity.

A short walk from the car park takes you to the complex. Here’s a map drawn by mini-me to make you better understand what the tomb complex holds.

Most travelers visit the main tomb and aren’t even aware that many other beautiful monuments in the complex deserve to be seen and known.

Let me take you through the monuments in the same order I visited them.

Tomb of Isa Khan

As you move farther from the ticket counter, on your right is the walled Isa Khan’s tomb complex, which houses the mosque and tomb of Isa Khan, built in the Sur and Lodhi architectural styles.

Isa Khan Niazi, a Pashtun, was a noble with authority in the courts of Sher Shah Suri and Islam Shah Suri who fought the Mughals.

Isa Khan built his resting place during his lifetime. The tomb of Isa Khan Niazi was completed way before (at least 20 years) Humayun’s Tomb.

The octagonal tomb looks impressive with its blue-glazed canopies and intricate carvings.

This tomb is said to be one of the first examples of a sunken garden tomb in India. The same style, of course, was later transcribed at Humayun’s Tomb, Akbar’s Tomb, and the Taj Mahal.

Inside the tomb, the Persian inscription on a red sandstone slab reads “An Asylum of Paradise.”

Isa Khan’s Mosque, on the western side of the complex, looks pretty with its three distinct mihrabs carved with beautiful calligraphy.

Bu Halima Enclosure

As you exit the Isa Khan Tomb complex, the arched Bu Halima’s Gateway leads you to Bu Halima’s Garden with Bu Halima’s tomb.

The Cenotaph on the dilapidated raised platform in the northern corner of the garden is said to contain Bu Halima’s grave.

Not much is known about Bu Halima except that she was a part of Babur’s escort to India.

But obviously, she must have held a prominent position in the Mughal empire to have a gate and a garden named after her.

Arab Ki Sarai

South of Bu Halima’s Gateway is Arab ki Sarai. Haji Begum built this Sarai for 300 Arab servants who accompanied her on the Hajj (Pilgrimage).

Another school of thought says that the lodge was built for the Persian architect and workers who built Humayun’s Tomb.

The Arab ki Sarai complex features lawns, a baoli (stepwell), and a market with arched cells that may have served as shops or quarters for traders and travelers.

The market is thought to have been added to the Sarai by Mihr Banu Agha, a chief eunuch at Jahangir’s court.

Its lawns house the Afsarwala Tomb and Mosque.

The Sarai has three gates – one on the north side, another on the east, and another on the west.

The Western Gate

Once you are done exploring Arab Ki Sarai, it’s time to check out the showstopper – Humayun’s Tomb!

The grand Western Gate leads you to Humayun’s tomb. The tomb has another entry gate on the south, but it’s closed for now.

Humayun’s Tomb – First Look

The First Impressions!

I had my Aha! Moment. I couldn’t stop clicking the red-and-white beauty in all its glory.

The early morning sun added more oomph.

No wonder it inspired the architecture of one of the seven wonders of the world – the Taj Mahal. You heard it right.

Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi, is the first of the grand dynastic mausoleums that were to become synonymous with Mughal architecture, with the architectural style reaching its zenith 80 years later at the later Taj Mahal. ~ UNESCO

Humayun’s Tomb – Design and Architecture

The tomb stands in the center of the char bagh. Mughal Char Bagh is a typical Persian quadrilateral garden, divided by walkways and waterways, with axial paths that intersect at the center.

The layout of this garden is based on the four gardens of Paradise cited in the Holy Quran.

Humayun’s Tomb stands in the center on a raised platform.

As you walk closer to the famed mausoleum, you’ll see archways leading to rooms around the entire structure. The doors to the rooms are closed.

There are flights of stairs on four sides of the mausoleum that take you to the tomb.

The entire structure, with its white marble dome and blue-colored pillared chhatris (canopies or kiosks) with cupola roofs on each side, looks resplendent.

The elements of Indian architecture, particularly Rajasthani architecture (such as chhatris and pendentives), blend seamlessly with Persian architecture to create a beautiful mausoleum.

Also, Humayun’s Tomb was the first in India to use a Persian double dome with a spire ending in a crescent, which otherwise is a common feature in Timurid tombs.

The interior of the tomb has a domed central chamber with 4 main octagonal chambers on two floors, connected by diagonal passages, and four auxiliary chambers in between.

Each octagonal chamber again has eight smaller chambers, making a total of 124 chambers.

What I found extremely interesting is the way clerestory windows with lattice screens (jaalis) are fitted into the arched alcoves to light up the entire chamber.

It’s hypnotizing to see the trickle of light filtering through the windows, making beautiful silhouettes.

The central marble lattice features a mihrab indicating Qibla, an essential and symbolic element in mosques.

The domed central chamber houses the single cenotaph of the second Mughal emperor Humayun, arranged on a north-south axis.

According to Islam, the body is buried with its head placed to the north with the face turned sideways in the direction of Mecca.

There’s a lamp hanging from the high-domed ceiling right above the cenotaph.

The emperor’s actual burial place is below the cenotaph you see, but the entrance to the underground chamber is closed to the public.

The smaller chambers contain over 100 graves of the other members of the Mughal family.

Most of them are unidentified, except for a few, such as those of Hamida Begum and Dara Shikoh.

Nai ka Gumbad (Barber’s Tomb)

Barber’s Tomb lies in the south corner of Char Bagh and is said to belong to the royal barber in Humayun’s court; however, there’s no evidence to support this claim.

Inside, there are two marble graves, each inscribed with Quranic verses, and one of them bears the number 999, which happens to be the Hijra year (1590-91 AD).

It’s assumed that the graves belong to the barber and his wife.

Interestingly, Nai Ka Gumbad is the only structure lying within the same garden as the Mughal emperor.

That indicates the importance of the mysterious persons buried here.

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Nila Gumbad

Placed next to Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station is Nila Gumbad, also known as Nila Burj or Blue Dome, in a dilapidated state.

The name Blue Dome comes from the striking blue color of its dome. Abdul Rahim Khan-I-Khana built the tomb for his servant Miyan Fahim.

Fahim grew up as well as died alongside Rahim’s son, Feroze Khan.

Abdul Rahim was raised by the Mughal emperor Akbar after the death of his father, Bairam Khan, a courtier in the royal court.

Rahim was a famous poet and one of the nine essential ministers, the Navratanas (nine gems), in Akbar’s court. He’s best known for his Hindi dohe, or couplets, which are taught in schools as part of the Hindi curriculum.

The tomb is uniquely octagonal on the outside and square on the inside with a beautifully ornamented roof.

Chilla Nizamuddin Auliya

Chilla-Khanqah Nizamuddin is where Delhi’s iconic Sufi saint, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, lived, meditated, and died.

Flanked by Humayun’s Tomb on one side and Gurudwara Damdama Sahib on the other, the Chilla lies in the wilderness where one can feel the peace, bliss, and spirituality in the air.

Nizamuddin Auliya would perform chilla-kashi (meditation without food and water for 40 days) at his khanqah, a monastery.

Hey, if you are traveling to Delhi with kids, don’t forget to take them to Shankar’s International Dolls Museum!

Essentials

Getting to Humayun’s Tomb

Humayun’s Tomb is located on Mathura Road just opposite the Nizamuddin Dargah in a chic neighborhood of South Delhi. The area is well-connected to other parts of Delhi.

Nearest Metro Stations: JLN Stadium metro station on the Purple Line (2 km) and the Jorbagh metro station on the Yellow Line (5 km).

Nearest Bus Station: Sarai Kale Khan Bus Station

DTC buses run through the city with various strategic stops. To reach Humayun’s Tomb, you can catch bus numbers 447 or 966B, which halt at the DPS bus stop, about a 5-minute walk from the tomb.

Alternatively, you can catch any of the bus numbers 19, ML77, 166, or 181 that make a quick stop at the Nizamuddin Police Station, which is just a 900-meter walk away from Humayun’s Tomb.

Nearest Railway Station: Nizamuddin Railway Station ( about 2 km)

Nearest Airport: Indira Gandhi International Airport (almost 25 km)

You can also hire an auto-rickshaw, Uber, or Ola to reach the tomb complex from anywhere in the capital city.

Entrance Fee

Indian, BIMSTAC, and SAARC nationals: INR 35 per adult

Other foreign nationals: INR 550 per adult

Entry is free for children under 15.

Videography: INR 25

Opening Hours

6 am – 6 pm (Sunrise to Sunset)

Opening Days

The monument is open every day of the week.

Wondering where to stay in Delhi? Check out the best hotels to stay in Delhi.

Travel Tips

• Make time to explore the four complexes within the mausoleum grounds.
• Wear comfortable cotton clothes in summer, warm woolen clothes in winter, and comfy sneakers year-round.
• Carry plenty of water as the exploration involves a lot of walking and backtracking.
• Washrooms are available within the premises.
• We suggest making a trip around early morning before sunrise or late evening during sunset for the killer photographs.
• Just 5 minutes away, Nizamuddin Basti has food outlets.
• The white marble dome is now lit up at night, illuminating the skyline of Delhi. It’s a sight to behold.

Read our ultimate travel guide to Delhi that answers all your questions about traveling to Delhi: how to get around, where to stay, what to eat, and places to visit in Delhi.

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