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Utterly Risky Yet Beautiful Leh-Manali Highway – Mecca of Road Trips

By Anjali Chawla  

Leh-Manali Highway. The twisty 490 km long highway that’s alive with challenging and treacherous snow-carpeted passes, deep valleys, high altitude plains and unending streams; offers a pretty sight of vibrant prayer flags strung across on ropes; exhibits severe weather conditions (icy-cold wind literally cuts through you); where atmospheric oxygen drops as one progresses further making it difficult to breathe and picturesque landscapes too take your breath away as vistas change with every hairpin bend.

If I have to describe my experience of driving through Leh-Manali Highway – I would say that the journey through one of the riskiest highways is like traversing through heaven and hell in one fell swoop but then that’s what makes this road trip decisively perfect trip to take.

This is one road journey that should not be missed! It’s overwhelming to witness the imposing raw nature at play! Believe me, memories of this road experience will be etched on your heart and soul forever.

Leh-Manali Highway

On the way to Rohtang Pass from Manali.

No Looking Back!

The moment our car trailed away from Manali and drifted into curved roads cut through towering mountains showing off deep gorges is when I knew that this is going to be one hell of an experience, literally and metaphorically!

The mighty Rohtang Pass gleamed under a fresh fall of the hailstone. The journey becomes arduous yet beautiful as one move across Rohtang Pass.

Just when one crosses Rohtang Pass, civilization suddenly evaporates. It seems like you are completely disconnected from the world. But, as a matter of fact, you connect…connect with untouched and beautiful nature. Mighty Himalayas (in different shades of brown), bluish blue sky, gushing rivers, hushed lakes, relentless winds and funny but valid BRO (Border Roads Organisation) road signs become your constant companions all through the journey.

Leh-Manali Highway

Our campsite at Tandi.

Tandi was our destination for night halt. It was our first experience of staying in tents amidst meadows and snow-peaked mountains. We enjoyed it, even more, to see kids enjoying every bit of it.

The Confluence of Chandra and Bhaga Rivers at Tandi is a must-stop. Legend has it that Chandra (daughter of the moon) and Bhaga (son of the sun) who were in love with each other finally met here. The Chandrabhaga River becomes Chenab as it crosses from Jammu to Punjab.

Cerulean Bhaga River flowing on one side of the road towards Keylong makes the experience a visual treat. The road further leads to Jispa and Darcha, which is known to be the last settlement with numbered residents and few shops. Trekkers start their journey to Zanskar from Darcha. Mountains grow taller and arid as one progress towards one of the highest passes on this road, Baralacha La Pass. BRO workers were busy shoving the fresh snow off the roads.

It’s heartening to know that these people make the mountain roads their home for 5-6 months a year and toil hard to make our lives easier. Can’t thank them enough. We did our bit by offering water and snacks to them. You know, just waving at them makes their day in a place otherwise completely uncoupled from civilization.

Army presence is overwhelming and bestows life on nearly lifeless roads. Snow-clad peaks, barren mountains, deserted roads, highest passes and almost frozen lakes typify the Manali-Leh highway. Deepak Tal and Suraj Tal are worth a pause!

Tandi Leh-Manali Highway

Chandra River at Tandi.

Spending a Ghastly Night at Sarchu, Major Halt Point on the Leh-Manali Highway

Our stay at Sarchu camps was rough and troublesome. The backdrop of the camp was pretty but the conditions were equally crude and strident. Cruel chilly winds and oxygen shortage don’t allow you to acknowledge the beauty.  Tents were unable to save us from the horribly low temperatures of the region. They didn’t even provide the guests with proper bedding and blankets. Drop in oxygen level added to the woes. It was a nightmare.

It seemed like the longest night of my life. I thought to myself that maybe God sometimes tests human spirit. I would recommend people to stay in a guesthouse or a homestay at Keylong or Jispa to avoid the inconvenience. Please don’t confuse adventure with the inconvenience.

An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered. ~ G.K.Chesterton

Just thinking about that night brings shivers down my spine.

End of the Harshest of Nights – Leaving Sarchu

Sarchu Leh-Manali Highway

Camps at Sarchu.

Leaving Sarchu during ungodly hours (3:30 a.m) was unavoidable. Getting into our car felt like bliss after that hellish stay at the camps. The night sky full of stars twinkled in all its splendor as if trying to put a smile on our tired faces. As the darkness died out and daylight kicked off, the sun adorned the snow-peaks with its tangerine and the golden brown mountains with curvy roads and sharp turns became apparent.

Driving in dark on these roads was tedious because of bad road conditions. BRO has been doing a wonderful job in keeping the roads open and drivable for tourists to enjoy the virgin nature, however constantly liquefying snow from the mountains damage the roads making the driving conditions bad.

Tsarap River looks mesmerizing in the early morning light. The aligned road unanticipatedly turns into a twisted road and killer hairpin switchbacks climb swiftly to Nakee La Pass at the height of 15,647 ft. This incline to Nakee La is known as 21 Gata Loops because of series of 21 hairpin bends.

Mornings at Leh-Manali Highway

Tsarap River in the early morning light.

The Ghost of Gata Loops

The story of Ghost of Gata Loops makes this particular stretch scary as well as interesting.

The legend has it that a truck carrying a driver and cleaner was broken down on one of the 21 hairpin bends. The driver walked to the nearest village to get help and left behind the cleaner to take care of the loaded truck. The driver got stuck for several days in one of the village and as soon as the weather cleared, driver along with the helpers rushed back to the place where the truck was deserted only to discover that the cleaner had died because of thirst. hunger and excessive cold. The cleaner was buried in the same spot. Travelers claim to have spotted a beggar asking for water. Some of them, who claim to have offered him water saw those bottles falling right through his hands. Goosebumps

To pacify the thirsty ghost, natives built a monument on the cleaner’s grave and many passersby who know the story leave sealed water bottles here. We could spot the pile of bottles near a memorial made of bricks with a real human skull placed inside that.

Gata Loops Leh-Manali Highway

Gata Loops

When Going Gets Tough…

Lachung La Pass at 16,600 ft follows the Nakee La Pass. The steep drop in oxygen levels while advancing on Leh-Manali Highway make you feel wobbly and out of sorts. It progressively becomes difficult to enjoy the journey and the views it’s offering.

Wacky descent from Lachung La to Pang scares and excites you; both at the same time. Pang boasts the “World’s Highest Transit Camp.”

After climbing and clambering through some of the highest passes, the road from Pang leads to plains which are like a fairyland in the middle of nowhere. The topography seems quite implausible. I mean, an unceasing stretch of plains at such high altitude enveloped by mountain ranges! What a respite after a brutal drive!

Morey Plains; the stunningly scenic and impossibly smooth stretch of 42 km at an altitude of 15,400 ft. belted by mountains on either side is known to be the biggest and highest tableland on Earth. It unconsciously became my favorite part of Leh-Manali Journey.

We spent some time soaking in the awesome views of seemingly dry and barren landscape with towering snow-capped peaks poising the skyline before ascending toward the Taglang La pass. I didn’t want the mighty plains to end – It was like “Yeh dil mange Morey”

Alas! All good things come to an end. The straight road begins to ascend to Taglang La, another mountain pass which is claimed to be the world’s second highest pass at 17,582 ft. It’s the highest point on the Leh-Manali Highway.

Morey Plains Leh-Manali Highway

Morey Plains!

The Tough Gets Going…

The descent from Taglang La pass, though long is certainly a breather as the elevation drops drastically all the way to Leh. Landscapes seem companionable as one descends to Rumtse (Indus Valley), the first human settlement after Lahaul-Spiti. Rumtse serves as a starting point for the trek to Tso Moriri and Kibber.

While landscapes here are inviting but we decided not to take unneeded breaks so that we could reach Leh on time and get required rest to get rid of a headache and nausea caused by high altitude drive.

We agilely crossed Upshi and Karu admiring the Indus River unceasingly flowing along the road. Phone signals started working somewhere near Karu. Incitement of having arrived at the place that has been my dream destination for years was evident and the weariness of two days’ tedious drive went off after a much-needed hot shower, light meal (khichdi) and affluent sleep.

I secretly thought to myself that there should be an award for surviving and thriving Leh-Manali Highway 🙂

The turnpike is highly vulnerable to avalanches or landslides and thus, is as risky as it is spectacular. It sure guarantees to give you an Adrenalin rush but never assures a secure and smooth passage.

Well, if it’s Leh-Manali Highway, you have got to expect the unexpected! This is why it makes for one helluva road trip! A badass roller coaster ride for sure!

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29 Comments

  • Reply
    Aditi
    August 14, 2017 at 4:36 am

    Leh has been on our travel list for so long. I hope to be able to do it soon. Thanks for you tip to stay at a guesthouse or a home stay at Keylong or Jispa. I cannot even imagine what you must’ve gone through with all those chilly winds and low oxygen. 🙁

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 20, 2017 at 5:30 pm

      Hope you get to visit soon, Aditi. Yeah, we have learnt it hard way. So, whenever you travel to Ladakh, avoid camp stays at Tandi, Sarchu, and Pang. I don’t want anyone to suffer the way we did. Thanks for stopping by 🙂

  • Reply
    Charmaine
    August 14, 2017 at 4:50 am

    Cheers! You have such a brave heart to go with this adventure. The pictures was really great and the ghost story was even scary.

  • Reply
    Middle Eats
    August 14, 2017 at 5:35 am

    This looks like the most amazing road trip, even with the tough bits! What a stunning landscape. Hopefully I can visit soon.

  • Reply
    Sheri
    August 14, 2017 at 6:33 am

    My goodness this is beyond beautiful. I love the wealth of information but the pictures take my breath away. I am sure is is even more amazing to see with your own eyes.

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 20, 2017 at 5:21 pm

      Thanks, Sheri! I’m glad you liked the post. Indeed, you should go and witness this boundless beauty with your own eyes as nothing ever becomes real till it is experienced 🙂

  • Reply
    Niharika Roychoudhury
    August 14, 2017 at 8:03 am

    Safarnama!!! I liked the name of your blog….They both indeed are beautiful place…wish to leave all the things behind and settle there…thanks for sharing and reminding this beautiful place.

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 20, 2017 at 5:18 pm

      Thank you, Niharika! Indeed, Leh-Ladakh is beautiful and worth all the effort!

  • Reply
    smraiyyan
    August 14, 2017 at 9:18 am

    “Mecca of road trips” I totally agree with that! I have been to a trip last year and man!! It was just heck of a trip and loved it. Just refreshed all the memories through your post.Thanks!

  • Reply
    Joanna
    August 14, 2017 at 1:45 pm

    I am afraid of heights so 21 hairpin curves don’t sound very appealing. However, the scenery looks breathtaking! I have a friend who did this road trip and i remember his stunning photos. The ghost story is so sad and spooky in the same time.

  • Reply
    Rhian Westbury
    August 14, 2017 at 3:54 pm

    Looks like a crazy drive, and the story of the cleaner is intense x

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 19, 2017 at 3:44 pm

      Thanks, Rhian. It was a crazy but beautiful drive.

  • Reply
    kaidigger
    August 14, 2017 at 6:13 pm

    As a bike ride, i love travelling offroad sites, Leh laddakh trip is always my dream trip, right now i’m trying to explore more of Uttarakhand, my last trip was Haridwar – Tungnath 🙂

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 19, 2017 at 3:44 pm

      Leh-Ladakh is known to be a bikers paradise. Once you finish exploring Uttrakhand, do plan a road trip to Ladakh. You’ll love it! Being a Shiva devotee, I have been craving to visit Tungnath. Let’s see when 🙂

  • Reply
    Liza Perry
    August 14, 2017 at 9:30 pm

    Your pictures are breathtaking seriously…I’m always attracted by this kind of road trip but then re make my mind as I can’t stand curved road haha Anyway it was interesting to read! Thanks!

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 19, 2017 at 3:40 pm

      Thank you so much, Liza. Haha…I was just like you few years back, like utterly afraid of curved and hairpin roads…but the fear dissolved the day I visited the beautiful and quaint town nestled in Himalayas. Try it once 🙂

  • Reply
    Jhilmil
    August 14, 2017 at 11:45 pm

    Stunning.. I went there some 4 years before, and till date it has been my best road trip I had. Leh is a paradise for sure.

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 19, 2017 at 3:34 pm

      Whoa! I’m glad I found someone who has experienced this one hell of a road trip!

  • Reply
    Wynne Katherine
    August 15, 2017 at 1:24 am

    It looks so beautiful from all the pictures that you have taken. It must have been a tough trip, but I am glad that you still had a lot of fun

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 19, 2017 at 3:33 pm

      Thank you, Wynne. Yeah, we had lots of fun despite the harshness of the terrains.

  • Reply
    Yukti
    August 15, 2017 at 4:48 am

    Though you had tough times in camp, you have taken stunning photos of Sarchu area. Kudos to you that you survived after a low oxygen and chilly wind.

  • Reply
    helerinablogs
    August 15, 2017 at 9:31 pm

    It’s so unusual to see lush green grass and snow capped mountains all at the same time. What a stunning adventure you had, it’s a shame you had to suffer the altitude problems and cold for it though.

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 19, 2017 at 3:31 pm

      Leh-Ladakh is all in one package 🙂 It was a phenomenal experience. As they say, good things come with a price so really didn’t regret the initial hiccups. Thanks for dropping by, really appreciate it 🙂

  • Reply
    alisonrost
    August 15, 2017 at 11:29 pm

    I work with a number of people in India and one of them has, like you, traveled on the Leh-Manali Highway. He’s said more than once it’s not for the faint of heart! Honestly, I’m deathly afraid of heights, so I’d either not go, or keep my eyes closed on some of those stretches. Yikes! I’ll for sure have to ask him about the ghost. It’s one heck of a story. x

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 19, 2017 at 3:23 pm

      True, Alison. Leh-Manali highway is certainly not for the faint of heart. And we did it with our 8 year old daughter. I’m glad she loves traveling to uncharted places like me and isn’t afraid of uncertainties that come with it. It was one heck of a journey! Haha…he must be knowing the ghost story as he has been there. Let me know his reaction 🙂

  • Reply
    toastycritic
    August 16, 2017 at 2:13 pm

    Driving on treacherous conditions can be a bit crazy. And that story that they tell about the person seeking the water as the one ran ahead to the village is sad. But it sounds like it was a great journey. And the pictures are marvelous.

    • Reply
      Anjali Chawla
      August 19, 2017 at 3:01 pm

      Thank you for reading. Yeah, it was an eventful journey and we loved every bit of it regardless of the crazy stuff that happened in the course of the journey.

  • Reply
    lexieanimetravel
    August 19, 2017 at 7:04 pm

    Wow what a wonderful adventure ☺ I was scared of that ghost story though be safe. Happy travelling

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