|

Gwalior Fort in Madhya Pradesh: Odyssey into Famed History

man mandir palace gwalior fort painting by vikram singh

This post tries to unearth the cultural, historical, and architectural secrets behind the imposing Gwalior Fort.

Since childhood, I have loved visiting cultural and historical places. Be it museums, religious places, forts, or caves, the vitality is apparent.

This is why my visit to the city of Gwalior in Madhya Pradesh is brimming with winsome energy. What’s better than sharing those positive emotions with the world?

I’m sure you’d want to explore Gwalior and its historical gems after reading my series of posts about this historic city.

Looking for hotels in Gwalior? Well, look no further than Neemrana’s Deo Bagh. It’s our favorite and one of the best hotels in Gwalior.

Heads up: some links here are affiliate links. That means if you click and buy something, I may earn a teeny-weeny commission (think chai money, not a private jet) at no extra cost to you. It’s a small way to keep this blog running, the words flowing, and the pages free for you to enjoy. I only recommend things I truly love, use, or secretly wish I invented, because trust matters, and so do good recs. Thanks for supporting the little cozy corner of the internet I call my virtual home.

The City of Gwalior: First Impressions

gwalior city madhya pradesh
The dusty, narrow, and crowded lanes of Gwalior reflect its fascinating past.

I’d heard a lot about Gwalior during my childhood from my mother and read about it in history classes. But honestly, my recollections were as dusty as the city of Gwalior in MP.

Unfolding the old city of Gwalior is like walking back in time. The influence of the divergent rulers has left an apparent mark on its lanes.

Thrilled to be in the historical city of Gwalior, we started our expedition with Gwalior Fort – the most majestic and impregnable fort in central India.

Gwalior Fort: A Brief History

Entrance Man Mandir Palace Gwalior Fort
Gwalior Fort – First Impressions!
Architectural marvel Man Mandir Palace Gwalior Fort
Vibrant blue, green, and yellow motifs adorn Man Mandir.

Famously known as the Gibraltar of India, the majestic Gwalior fort stands tall upon the Gopachala hill. Our guide told us that the exact date of the fort’s conception is uncertain, but chroniclers claim it was built around the 8th Century.

Folklore suggests that once Raja Suraj Sen, who suffered from leprosy, was wandering in search of water to quench his excessive thirst when Sage Gwalipa extended his help by offering him sacred water from a pond, which cured him of the disease.

Out of gratitude, Suraj Sen guarded the hilltop to protect saints from forest animals and named the place Gwalior as a tribute to the saint. And that’s how the story of Gwalior Fort emerged.

Having stood the test of time; the fort echoes the stories of its glorious battles and victories.

One such exclusive and unforgettable battle that took place here around 1858 is a battle fought by a youthful, graceful, and impassioned woman on horseback, a woman who ratified the soul and spirit of an Indian woman, Jhansi ki Rani, Lakshmibai.

Rani Lakshmibai, after defeating the then king of Gwalior, Jayajirao Scindia occupied the Gwalior fort which was crucial for her battle against the British.

She chose to end her life in triumph while fighting with the British troops. The British occupied the Gwalior fort three days after her death. She was a warrior who fought until the end.

In its lifetime, the fort has changed hands many times. The palace was ruled by varied monarchs viz. Kachwaha Rajputs, Qutubiddin Aibak, Pratiharas, Suris, Tomars, Mughals, Jats, Marathas, Britishers, and Scindias.

The fort came under Man Singh Tomar’s rule in the around 15th century. He revolutionized the fort into a glorious architectural marvel that everyone would talk about.

This four-floor edifice has two levels above and two below the ground. Gwalior fort was made in a way that it was almost unconquerable.

Man Mandir Palace Gwalior Fort
Majestic Gwalior Fort from another angle.

Mansingh Tomar was threatened by Ibrahim Lodi, who later detonated his way in. Then the fort came under the rule of Babur. Witnessing the fort for the first time; Babur stood there in astonishment and named it the “pearl amongst the fortresses of India”.

After confiscation by the Mughals, the fort was used as a jail. They ruined valued and precious stuff by the end of their rule. The fort was then ruled by the Marathas, the Britishers, and finally the Scindias.

The fort thrived again when conquered by Maharaja Scindia. Scindias are still considered God here by locals.

Read more: India itinerary ideas for spending 1 to 4 weeks

Gwalior Fort Entrance

jain tirthankaras gwalior fort
Jain Monuments, Siddhachal Caves

There are two possible entrances to the Gwalior Fort – the western entrance, Urvai Gate, and the eastern entrance, Gwalior Gate or Quila Gate. Urvai Gate allows you to drive up all the way to the fort.

The statues of Jain Tirthankaras along the way are worth a stopover.

If you enter through the Gwalior gate (close to the city), hiking up all the way to the fort is the only option as no vehicles are allowed. You can explore the Gujari Mahal located on the Gwalior Gate and then hike up to explore the Gwalior Fort.

The series of gates welcome you as you hike up the winding steep path starting from the Gwalior gate – the Badalgarh Gate, the Ganesh Gate, the Lakshman Gate, and the Hathi Pol. Hathi Pol (elephant gate) marks the dramatic entrance into the fort. Once the king-sized elephant statue graced the gate and thus, the name.

man singh palace gwalior fort places to visit in gwalior Hathi Pol Hathi Gate Gwalior Fort Pearl amongst the fortresses of India
Hathi Pol

Don’t forget to stop at the world’s oldest temple of Zero on the way up to the fort.

The oldest temple of zero gwalior fort chaturbhuj temple
The oldest existing Zero in Gwalior, Chaturbhuj Temple

If you are coming from the eastern side, the Archaeological Museum welcomes you first.

The MP tourism cafe greets you first if you are coming from the western side.

Gwalior Fort Monuments

The fort encompasses many palaces built by the different rulers who ruled the fort over time.

The fortress embraces six palaces ( Man Singh Palace (Man Mandir), Jahangir Mahal, Vikram Mahal, Karan Palace, Shah Jahan Mahal, and Gujari Mahal), four temples (Teli Ka Mandir, Sas Bahu Temple, Sun Temple, and Chaturbhuj Temple), one gurudwara (Data Bandi Chhor), other religious monuments like Garuda and SiddhanchalJain Temple Caves, Dhondapur Gate, Jauhar Kund, Hamamkhana fort Bastion, a British building, and several water tanks.

Assi Khamba ki Baori and Suraj Kund are other notable monuments inside the fort.

The fort area also hosts the Scindia School founded by Madho Rao Scindia, specifically for sons of kings and nobles.

Man Singh Palace (Man Mandir) in Gwalior Fort

Music Hall Man Mandir Palace Gwalior Fort
Raja Man Sing’s queens would watch performances from here.

Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort, inspired by Hindu and Medieval architecture, is unquestionably stunning, made out of sandstone with lovely patterns on hued tiles. Its historical significance is quite striking. It’s the main palace inside the fort premises.

Our guide narrated the wonderful tales that described the significance of each and every corner, motif, and sculpture inside the palace.

I was captivated by the tales. It was like walking down the lanes of history, a leap into the past, and reliving the stories.

Built by King Man Sing Tomar in the 15th century, Man Mandir is also known as Painted Palace or Chit Mandir.

Raja Man Singh was recognized as one of the most celebrated aficionados of art and music. He would see performances in the music hall with his queens and admire the artists. The palace echoed with soulful music.

He is well-known for his unparalleled contribution to music and is acknowledged for inventing the Dhrupad form of Hindustani classical music and establishing Vidyapeeth in Gwalior.

Chinese Dragon Courtyard of Man Mandir Palace Gwalior Fort

The courtyard of Man Mandir Palace features Chinese-influenced Dragons
Sun carvings man mandir palace gwalior fort

Beautiful sun carving at Man Mandir Palace courtyard

The music hall and the courtyard of the Man Mandir Palace are adorned with beautiful and unparalleled motifs and carvings.

Raja Man Singh's bedroom inside Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort
Raja Man Singh’s Bedroom inside Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort

These beautiful intricate brackets in the king’s bedroom were once adorned with stunning precious gems and stones but were looted by the Mughals. I was washed over by emotions thinking about how masterpieces built by Hindu kings were destroyed by the Mughals.

Underground floors were used as prisons during the Mughal reign. Akbar’s cousin, Kamran is also believed to be poisoned and killed here. Tales from the past suggest that Aurangzeb’s two nephews Suleiman and Sepher, the sons of Dara Shikoh were also executed here.

Underground Chamber Man Mandir Palace Gwalior Fort
Way to the Underground chamber in Man Mandir Palace.
Ventilation window man mandir palace gwalior fort
Ventilation in place at the underground chamber of Man Mandir Palace

I felt overly cramped while moving up and down the clandestine floors. It was quite dark. We had to use a phone flashlight. The way to the secret underground floors is also referred to as Bhool Bhulaiya. It certainly is one!

Jhulaghar at Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort
Jhulaghar where Man Singh’s eight queens spent their time swinging on jeweled swings, later on, became a circular prison that had witnessed the murder of Murad at the hands of his own brother, Aurangzeb.

An agonizing atmosphere of morality and courage of those days still lingers in the hush-hush corners of this imperial palace. Though I found it really beautiful, the sadness that exuded from it didn’t get away from the senses.

Kesar Kund at Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort
Kesar Kund (Bathing area) later on became Jauhar Kund (immolation area) where the royal ladies committed “samuhik sati” (mass immolation) after Raja Man Sigh’s death.
View of Gwalior from man mandir palace in Gwalior fort
View of Gwalior from one of the ventilation windows.

An impressive ventilation system was in place for the comfort of Queens. The top two floors are designed in a way to allow proper air and light, also means of communication with the outside world are in place.

Cool underground chambers in Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort
Cool underground chambers
Secret telephone line at Man Mandir palace in Gwalior fort
Antiquated secret telephone line

Admiringly, many of the lavishly ornamented attributes still exist at Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort.

Beautiful azure tiles at Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior fort
Mesmerizing brilliant azure tiles transcend the remnants of the yellow and green shades.

Karan Mahal in Gwalior Fort

Karan Palace Man Mandir Palace Gwalior Fort
Karan Mahal

The second king of the Tomar Dynasty, Kirti Singh built Karan Mahal in 1480. The palace seems simple among other architectural marvels inside the fort. Why did he name it Karan Mahal? Well, Karan Singh was his other name.

Vikram Mahal in Gwalior Fort

Vikram Mahal Gwalior Fort
Vikram Mahal

Vikram Mahal was built by Raja Man Singh’s elder son and heir Vikramaditya Singh. The architecture is simple with a baradari in the center with room on each side.

He was a Shiva devotee and constructed a Shiva temple inside the palace which was destroyed during the Mughal reign. The palace is named Vikram Mandir because of the Shiva temple.

There’s a small temple now beneath the tree just as you enter the palace premises.

Jahangir Mahal in Gwalior Fort

Jahangir Mahal Gwalior Fort Madhya Pradesh
At the top of Jahangir Mahal

Jahangir Mahal was called Sher Mahal as it was built by Sher Shah. However, the name was changed to the Jahangir Mahal after its restoration by Jahangir.

Shahjahan Mahal in Gwalior Fort

Shah Jahan Mahal Gwalior Fort Madhya Pradesh
The Shah Jahan Mahal

Shahjahan Mahal stands right opposite Jahangir Mahal on the same premises. Built by Shahjahan, the palace is another piece of Mughal architecture in India.

Chhatri of Bhim Singh Rana

Chhatri of Bhim Sigh Rana Gwalior Fort Madhya Pradesh
Chhatri (cenotaph) of Bhim Singh Rana

Bhim Singh Rana, a ruler of the Gohad state, captured Gwalior fort from Mughal Satrap, Ali Khan. He built Bhimtal (a lake) in the fort. His successor, Chhatra Singh built the chhatri (cupola) near the Bhimtal as a memorial to Bhim Singh Rana.

Gujari Mahal

Gujari Mahal Man Mandir Palace Gwalior Fort
Gujari Mahal as seen from Gwalior Fort

The Gujari Mahal was built by Raja Man Singh for Mrignayani, his favorite wife. Being a Gujar, she didn’t want to stay with other royal queens and asked for a separate palace for herself. She also demanded a regular water supply from the Rai River in her village to the palace.

The palace is now an archaeological museum with a remarkable assortment of sculptures, coins, weapons, and pottery.

Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhor

A gurudwara also exists within the fort as a memorial to the sixth guru of the Sikhs, Guru Hargobind Sahib who had been imprisoned by Mughal Emperor Jahangir at Gwalior fort.

Guru Hargobind Sahib was only 14 years old when imprisoned along with 52 Rajas inside the fort for being anti to the Mughal Empire. Guru Sahib requested the rajas to be released along with him. Jahangir permitted him to uncage rajas on a condition – he could only free the number of rajas who could hold on to him while leaving the prison.

Guru Hargobind stitched himself a cloak with 52 hems and freed all the rajas.

Assi Khamba Ki Baori in Gwalior Fort

An ancient circular step-well encompassed by 80 stone pillars, Assi Khamba ki Baori was built by Raja Man Singh Tomar.

Past records suggest that Jahangir held Guru Hargobind Singh and 52 other kings captive in the baori.

Suraj Kund in Gwalior Fort

Remember the folklore where Gwalipa directed King Suraj Sen to a pond on top of the hill to quench his thirst? Suraj Kund is believed to be the same pond. The king recovered from leprosy after drinking the water from the pond. Thus, it’s assumed to have medicinal value that can cure any chronic disease.

The pond was named Suraj Kund after the king’s name.

You Might Want to Read: Jai Vilas Palace in Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh

Temples in Gwalior Fort

Teli-ka-Mandir built in the Dravidian style, Saas-Bahu Temple and Sun Temple are the three impressive temples in Gwalior Fort.

I have written a separate post in detail about the temples and religious monuments like Siddhanchal Jain Temple Caves and Garuda inside the fort.

Light and Sound Show at Gwalior Fort

Sunset at Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort
Admiring a beautiful sunset while waiting for the Light and Sound Show to start at Gwalior Fort

There was still time to catch the Light and Sound show at Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort. Our guide suggested we see other monuments in the fortress and come back for the Light and Sound show at 6 pm.

We were just in time for the Light and Sound show. Sun went down giving way to a beautiful night that came alive with the dramatic lights and heroic tales of the past.

View of Gwalior City at night from Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort
Night view of Gwalior city from Gwalior Fort.

It was a fab show! Cool winter breeze blowing, beneath the naked sky, the palace illuminated in wonderful shades of light, the history of the city and fort executed in Amitabh Bachchan’s profound voice! Beautifully done, History was never so interesting.

light and sound show places to visit in gwalior madhya pradesh

Man Mandir Palace in Gwalior Fort is all lit up!

How to Visit Gwalior Fort: Essentials

Location

Gwalior Fort is located on the top of a hill and is seen from all the parts of Gwalior city. Located in the northeast of the fort is Man Mandir Palace.

Getting There

Gwalior is one of the best weekend getaways near Delhi and can easily be done as a road trip from Delhi.

Nearest Airport – Lal Rajmata Vijaya Raje Scindia Air Terminal in Gwalior

Nearest Railway Station – Gwalior Junction GWL

Nearest Bus Station – Gwalior Bus Stand

There are two entrance gates to the fort- Gwalior Gate and Urwahi Gate. Gwalior gate is located in the busy market area of Gwalior and requires an uphill climb (1 km) to reach the fort.

To avoid the trek, you can take your car or taxi through the Urwahi gate to reach the fort. Public transport isn’t accessible through the Urwahi gate though.

Gwalior Fort Timings

Gwalior Fort is open every day of the week from 8:00 to 18:00. Gujari Mahal remains closed on Monday.

Light and Sound Show runs for 45 minutes daily at 7:30 pm (Hindi) and 8:30 pm (English)

Duration of Visit / Time Required

The fort and its temples including the evening light and sound show take almost half a day to explore Gwalior Fort.

Gwalior Fort Entry Fees

The ticket counter is just opposite the Man Mandir’s entrance.

Guides are sure to approach you. I’d advise hiring a guide to understand the fascinating history of Gwalior Fort.

Archaeological Musem Entry Tickets

INR 5 per person

Photography is prohibited inside the museum.

Man Mandir Entry Tickets

The ticket for Man Mandir is to be used for Sas Bahu Temple and Teli Ka Mandir too. So, hold onto it. The entrance ticket for other palaces is separate.

Indians – INR 25 per person

Foreigners – INR 100 per person

Children (below 15 years) – Free

Entry Tickets for Other Palaces

Indians – INR 10 per person

Foreigners – INR 250 per person

Children (below 15 years) – Free

Camera – INR 25

Gujari Mahal Entry Tickets

INR 10 per person

INR 50 for the camera

Light and Sound Show Tickets

Indians – INR 100 per adult; INR 50 per child (5-12 years)

Foreigners – INR 250 per adult; INR 150 per child (5-12 years)

Light and Sound Show tickets can be purchased from the MP tourism cafe inside the fort.

Cafe inside the Gwalior Fort

Madhya Pradesh Tourism Cafe Man Mandir Palace Gwalior Fort
MP Tourism cafe

The Madhya Pradesh Tourism Cafe at the western entrance of the Gwalior Fort serves basic snacks, tea, and coffee at a reasonable price. You can also buy bottled water from here.

We tried patties and tea.

Best Time to Visit Gwalior Fort

The best time to visit is between October to March when the temperature is just right.

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the Gwalior Fort. It was a hectic but remarkable day. We set off for our hotel to get some well-needed rest.

Save the Guide to Gwalior Fort to Pinterest

gwalior fort

Featured Image: Painting by Vikram Singh

11 Comments

  1. I love visiting historical sites too. The Man-Mandir Palace must have been so grand during its time but visiting it now, all it exudes is tragedy and sadness. Thanks for sharing a piece of your history and for the beautiful photos.

  2. I am always amazed by the beauty of castles, palaces, and all the stories that are related to it. Always a sucker for visiting those. It’s a shame that all the prettiness got looted by the mughals and later on by the British; it really saddens me. Thanks for sharing this post, this place is on my list. 🙂

  3. “The dusty, narrow, and crammed lanes of the city of Gwalior reflect its fascinating past.
    Unfolding the old city of Gwalior is like walking back in time. The influence of the divergent rulers has spilled an apparent mark on its lanes.”
    This thing i felt too when i was in Gwalior there is something in that air that tells us about the past of Gwalior.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *