Staying in a Houseboat in Kumarakom with Backwater Routes

No trip to Kerala is complete without experiencing a houseboat stay. It’s such a vital part of a Kerala experience. My children were over the moon with excitement at the prospect of spending the night on a Kettuvallam. Here’s what we thought about our time on a houseboat in Kumarakom, courtesy of Backwater Routes.

P.S.: You might be curious about what a Kettuvallam is. It’s the name for a houseboat in Kerala. The word ‘Kettuvallam’ comes from the Malayalam language, where ‘kettu’ means ‘tied with ropes’ and ‘vallam’ means ‘boat’. In the past, these boats were essential for transporting spices and other goods. Nowadays, they’ve been transformed into a key tourist attraction, offering leisurely rides and experiences.

Read more: India itinerary ideas for spending 1 to 4 weeks

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Let’s Touch the Basics: All About Houseboats and Backwaters

Difference Between Houseboats in Kerala and Kashmir

In India, houseboats are a big attraction in both Kerala and Kashmir, but they’re quite different from each other.

In Kerala, the houseboats, known as Kettuvallams, embody a harmony with nature, crafted from materials like bamboo, coconut fiber, and jackfruit tree wood. The unique aspect of these houseboats is their construction; the hull is fashioned from jackfruit tree planks and bound together using coconut coir, eschewing the use of nails. This traditional technique highlights the eco-friendly ethos of Kerala’s backwaters.

On the other hand, Kashmir’s houseboats stand out with their wooden structure adorned with elaborate carvings, showcasing the region’s rich artistic heritage.

Guests on Kerala’s houseboats enjoy a dynamic experience, cruising through the serene backwaters during the day and mooring along the banks at night. In contrast, Kashmir’s houseboats offer a static charm, as they are permanently anchored along the lake shores, providing a peaceful retreat amidst the scenic beauty of the region.

Types of Houseboats in Kerala

The backwaters of Kerala are dotted with a growing number of houseboats. These come in various types, such as Deluxe, Premium, and Luxury, categorized based on the number of rooms and amenities offered.

They vary in size, from cozy one-bedroom boats to spacious five-bedroom ones, and in terms of air conditioning options, ranging from night-time AC to full-day AC.

What are Backwaters?

Backwaters is a term often linked with Kerala, but what does it really mean?

Backwaters are an intricate network of interconnected canals, lagoons, lakes, and rivers. They’re often formed where the currents and tides of the sea lead to sand building up, creating barrier islands. These islands act as natural barriers.

Rivers that flow towards the sea can be blocked by these barrier islands, causing the river water to flow back or recede. At times, strong sea currents can push the seawater into the river, mixing with the freshwater and making it slightly saline or brackish.

Kerala’s backwaters stretch for about 900 km, running from the north to the south of the state.

Major Backwater Areas in Kerala

When planning a houseboat stay in Kerala, one of the first decisions is selecting the right backwater area. The backwaters form a vast network, and each area offers a unique experience.

Some of the key backwater regions include:

• Kavvayi
• Padanna
• Kozhikode
• Thrissur
• Alleppey
• Kumarakom
• Kollam
• Thiruvananthapuram

Alleppey, often hailed as the ‘Venice of the East,’ is the most renowned backwater destination in Kerala and tends to be quite popular with tourists. On our first trip to Kerala, we had already explored the bustling Alleppey backwaters.

So, for our second visit, having already experienced the touristy vibe of Alleppey, we decided to choose the quieter and more serene backwaters of Kumarakom. Located in the Kottayam district, Kumarakom offers a tranquil retreat, contrasting with the lively atmosphere of Alleppey.

It’s interesting to note that Alleppey and Kumarakom are situated at opposite ends of Vembanad Lake, each presenting its own unique charm and backwater experience.

Backwater Routes: A Beautiful Stay in a Houseboat in Kumarakom

Kumarakom is located on the banks of Vembanad Lake. For our stay in Kumarakom, we selected Backwater Routes Houseboats. Snuggled on the shores of Vembanad Lake, Kumarakom offers a picturesque backdrop for a houseboat experience.

Interesting to note: Vembanad Lake holds the title of the longest lake in India.

Here’s what was included in our package:

• We stayed in a 2-bedroom deluxe houseboat equipped with air conditioning.
• The package was all-inclusive, covering meals – lunch, evening snacks, dinner, and breakfast.
• We enjoyed cruising along the expansive Vembanad Lake.
• An early morning canal cruise in a traditional country boat was also part of the experience.

As for the houseboat check-in process:

• Check-in time was scheduled for 12:30 pm, and check-out was at 9 am.
• We drove from Kochi and arrived around 12 pm. Fortunately, the houseboat was all set for our arrival.
• We received a heartwarming welcome from the owner, Mr. Jayaraj, complete with flower garlands and fresh coconut water.

The children were thrilled and immediately began exploring their floating home for the next day.

Backwater Routes Houseboat in Kumarakom

Stepping onto the houseboat, it was incredible to witness the transformation of a traditional rice barge into a luxurious modern abode. The entrance led us into a combined living and dining area, enclosed with windows and doors, offering uninterrupted views of the lush surroundings.

A corridor extended from the living room, flanked by two bedrooms, leading to a fully-equipped kitchen at the far end.

The kitchen’s well-arranged setup caught our attention immediately. Each bedroom was complemented with a modern, western-style attached bathroom.

A staircase led to the upper deck, which quickly became our favorite spot to relax and observe the boat gliding through Kerala’s iconic backwaters.

The Food

Words hardly do justice to the culinary experience we had. We opted for vegetarian dishes and were treated to an array of delectable Kerala vegetarian cuisine for lunch. The standout dishes were the cabbage thoran and sambhar, bursting with flavor.

The highlight was the warm payasam, a delightful pudding made with milk and a choice of ingredients like rice, broken wheat, vermicelli, dal, or tapioca. Enjoying this feast amidst the tranquil waters, with stunning views all around, was an unforgettable experience.

They say, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.”

Following the adage, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do,” we embraced the local way of eating with our hands, as rice is a staple in South India.

It was endearing to see the kids quickly adapt to this cultural practice. We weren’t experts, but we certainly gave it our best shot.

In the evening, we had the pleasure of savoring a traditional Kerala treat – Ela Ada. These are sweet, steamed rice pancakes filled with coconut and jaggery, so soft and delightful that they just melted in our mouths.

What made our meals even more enjoyable was that our chef, Mr. Ranjith, tailored the spice levels to our liking, making the food perfectly suited for our kids. They were thoroughly enjoying every bite. Mr. Ranjith was always smiling, eager to please us with his delicious creations.

The next morning, after a serene cruise through the winding canals, we were greeted with a healthy breakfast of idli sambhar and fresh watermelon juice. The combination of soft idlis (steamed rice cakes), dipped in hot sambhar, and complemented with a generous helping of coconut chutney, was simply divine. Just recalling and writing about them makes my mouth water.

The Route

As soon as we settled in, our houseboat journey commenced, gliding through the River Kaipuzha and into the Cheepunkal creek, eventually emerging onto the vast expanse of Lake Vembanad.

We cruised by the scenic Coconut Lagoon Resort and the outskirts of the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, visible to our left. Our path then took us westward towards Pathiramal Island, known as “Sands of Night,” a historic resting spot for fishermen during their nocturnal fishing expeditions.

This picturesque island served as our lunch stop. Here, we saw other houseboats moored to tree stumps, their occupants also enjoying a leisurely lunch against the backdrop of stunning views.

After a rejuvenating hour-long break, our journey continued north towards the Alleppey region, passing through Vechoor, a place known for its numerous Chinese fishing nets.

As evening began to set in, the sky transformed into a canvas of orange hues. Holding a cup of tea, with coconut trees lining the horizon, we felt a profound sense of contentment.

Our route took us past a beautiful church on our way back to the docking point, adding a final touch of serenity to our memorable backwaters journey.

Exploring the Village in the Evening

As the evening set in, we decided to step off our houseboat and take a leisurely walk through the village of Vechoor, where we were anchored for the night. Roaming the streets aimlessly, without a map or specific destination in mind, was a truly relaxing way to explore.

The village streets were lined with houses, each boasting spacious courtyards brimming with coconut, banana, drumstick, and mango trees, alongside a variety of flowering plants.

The sound of devotional songs drew us towards a large temple complex. It turned out to be the Govindapuram Sri Krishna Temple. Greeting us at the entrance was a towering oil lamp, and the pillars around were adorned with idols representing the 10 incarnations of Vishnu.

It’s important to note that men are permitted to enter the temple only if they are bare-chested or wearing an Angavastram (a traditional stole worn over the shoulders).

As the sun dipped behind the coconut trees, the light filtering through the leaves signaled that it was time for us to end our day’s exploration and return to the comforts of our houseboat.

Sunrise and Early Morning Cruising Through the Canals

After a restful night, we woke up early at 6 a.m., eager to immerse ourselves in the early morning tranquility of the backwaters aboard a country boat. The ambiance was nothing short of magical – birds singing, water lilies unfolding, locals beginning their day, and the sun rising in a captivating display.

It was a moment to be grateful for, a serene start to the day. Upon returning to our houseboat after a two-hour exploration, a delightful breakfast awaited us. Savoring hot idlis and sambhar, we prepared ourselves to continue our journey to Thekkady.

We bid farewell to our gracious hosts, carrying with us unforgettable memories from our enchanting stay.

Booking Your Stay with Backwater Routes Houseboats in Kumarakom

To ensure a smooth and hassle-free experience, it’s wise to book your houseboat stay in advance. Backwater Routes Houseboats, located in Kumarakom, also organizes houseboat stays across various routes and areas.

You can check reviews & book your stay with Backwaters Routes Houseboats via Tripadvisor.

Our Experience with Backwaters Routes Houseboats: Verdict

The hospitality we received was truly heartwarming. The owner, Mr. Deep, took the time to converse with us, sharing insights into the local history and culture. The houseboat itself was spotless and cozy.

We particularly appreciated their attention to cleanliness, as they promptly tidied up the dining and living areas after each meal. Our chef, Mr. Ranjith, delighted us with a variety of delicious dishes, tailored to our preferences, including some traditional specialties. Remember, there are various routes and locations to choose from for your houseboat adventure.

Tips for a Smooth Houseboat Stay

1. Obtain the Google coordinates for the houseboat location to find it easily.
2. Carry insect repellent, as mosquitoes can be a nuisance in the evenings.
3. Bring along books or games for the kids. We packed coloring materials and books for daytime entertainment, and they enjoyed watching cartoons on the TV in the evening.
4. Inform the houseboat owner of your dietary preferences (vegetarian or non-vegetarian, level of spiciness) beforehand.
5. For non-vegetarians, there’s an option to savor fresh seafood, which can be cooked to your liking.
6. Remember, the backwaters are vital to the local community. Please be respectful and avoid polluting the waters.

Disclosure: Our stay on the Backwater Routes houseboat in Kumarakom was complimentary. However, as always, our opinions are entirely our own and are shared with the genuine intention of recommending a worthwhile experience to fellow travelers.

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